However, for people unbolting, or using on some order a catyletic converter, you have to be careful to measure and cut your b-pipe. Provided you are completely deleting the cat, and the answer is yes because you probably can't get the manifolds separated from the current b pipe flange and there is none. Your question could really be phrased "do I need a downpipe" to fill the gap between the b pipe in the heade. Without a pipe bender, what you can do is insert one slightly smaller pipe to the front of the b pipe to create a angular elbow which you then follow with a bead. He who had a giant Miller welder on the back of his truck took the pipe and mocked it up of to the extractor manifolds. So there's like this foot stretch of pipe that you just have to find, cut and weld in to close the gap. The b pipes had to reach the flange so it wouldn't come apart. After I got those on there, I'm confronted with a problem: You're probably going to need an impact socket and an extension in order to break loose the bolts, and I twisted the adaptor-end of my extension 45 degrees so you couldn't attach a socket any longer. Emissions control is extremely destructive. If you're not flush, you're putting on heads. Measure the exhaust side of the head for warpage and see. A attendant at the garage I rented noted they had clearly been cherry red and overheated, which is what you imagine killing your truck. when you install the JBA shortys, I recommend that you remove the engine mounts and then remove the head-manifold bolts. What's not apparent is the difference in length between that of the short headers from jba and the stock manifolds. Also, you need to know that Virginia didn't pass my truck because the "oxygen sensors must be downstream from the catyletic converters" That much is apparent. I know from personally installing JBA short tube manifolds you cannot use aftermarket manifold and OEM manifold simultaneously. The original catalytic converters are the manifold. We're not going to fit the OEM cats back on.
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